U.S. patent application 20040241198 to Blin, Xavier; et al. discloses Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyester resulting from esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) and at least one oil with a molar mass of 650 to 10 000 g/mol. The composition of the present invention unlike the application of Bin discloses polyesters with extraordinary oxidative stability, making them far superior to the triglyceride based products of Bin.
We have also found that the Guerbet capped polyesters are outstanding and surprisingly oxidatively stable when used together with so called “pasty compounds”. The term “pasty compound” has been used commonly in the are to mean a lipophilic fatty compound, which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and, in the solid state, has an anisotropic crystalline organizational structure, and which, at a temperature of 23° C., comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. An example of such a use is found in United States Patent Application 20040241121 Blin, Xavier; et al. Dec. 2, 2004
In one embodiment, the composition disclosed herein may constitute a makeup product for the body, lips or epidermal derivatives of humans which may have properties, for example, of non-therapeutic treatment and/or care. For example, the composition disclosed herein may constitute a lipstick or lip gloss, a blusher or eye shadow, a tattooing product, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail varnish, an artificial tanning product for the skin or a hair care or hair coloring product.
Numerous cosmetic compositions exist for which gloss properties in the deposited film are desirable following its application to keratin materials (such as skin, lips, epidermal derivatives). Examples that may be mentioned include lipsticks, nail varnishes and certain hair products.
From this viewpoint, a formulator may have a number of types of base materials at his or her disposal, such as lanolins, which may be used in combination with what are termed as “gloss” oils, such as a) polybutenes, which have a high viscosity, b) fatty alcohol or acid esters with a high carbon number (typically greater than 16), c) certain vegetable oils, d) esters resulting from partial or complete esterification of a hydroxylated aliphatic compound with an aromatic acid, as described in patent application EP 1 097 699, e) polyesters obtained by sequential reaction of castor oil with isostearic acid and then with succinic acid, which are described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,342,527, and the Guerbet capped polyesters of the present invention. Surprisingly, only the Guerbet capped polyesters of the present invention provide the oxidative stability necessary to product truly odor free personal care products
In one embodiment, disclosed herein is a glossy cosmetic care and/or makeup composition for keratin materials, such as skin, lips and epidermal derivatives, which can have improved properties relative to the cosmetic compositions of prior art. For example, deposition of the composition disclosed herein on the keratin materials can be more sharply defined and its color retention can be enhanced.
In one embodiment, the present inventors have found that the use i) of at least one Guerbet capped polyester the topic of Ser. No. 11/002,363 filed Dec. 3, 2004, incorporated herein by reference, with ii) at least one (i.e., one or more than one) oil with a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which can be glossy on application and over time, can exhibit at least one property chosen from good application properties, good properties of spreading, of color retention after challenge, of comfort (no tightening or drying out) and of non-migration and whose outlines, when deposited on keratin materials, can be well defined and whose color intensity can be enhanced.
The oil with a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol is referred to herein as an oil of high molar mass.
In one embodiment, disclosed herein is a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, i) of at least one Guerbet capped polyester the topic of Ser. No. 11/002,363 filed Dec. 3, 2004, incorporated herein by reference, ii) at least one oil of a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol, and iii) at least one colorant.
In another embodiment, disclosed herein is a cosmetic method of endowing a film of a cosmetic composition with at least one property chosen from gloss on application and over time, good application properties and good properties of spreading, of color retention following challenge, of comfort (no tightening or drying out) and of non-migration, with outlines which, when deposited on keratin materials, are well defined, and with enhanced color intensity, wherein the method comprises including in the composition i) of at least one Guerbet capped polyester the topic of Ser. No. 11/002,363 filed Dec. 3, 2004, incorporated herein by reference, with ii) at least one oil of a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol, and iii) at least one colorant.
In yet another embodiment, disclosed herein is the use of the combination of i) of at least one Guerbet capped polyester the topic of Ser. No. 11/002,363 filed Dec. 3, 2004, incorporated herein by reference, with and ii) at least one oil of a molar mass ranging from 650 to 10,000 g/mol, in a physiologically acceptable composition comprising at least one colorant for endowing the composition with at least one property chosen from gloss on application and over time, good application properties and good properties of spreading, of outline definition, of comfort (no tightening or drying out) and of non-migration, with enhanced color intensity and with enhanced color retention after challenge, and to provide unexpected oxidatively stability heretofore unknown in the art.
In one embodiment, the composition disclosed herein is free of lanolin or lanolin derivatives.
As disclosed herein, the term “lanolin derivatives” means, for example, liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, lanolin purified by adsorption, lanolin acetate, lanolin wax, for example the oxypropylenated (5 PO) lanolin wax sold as Emery 1695 by Cognis, isopropyl lanolate, liquid lanolin acetate, hydroxylanolin, polyoxyethylene-lanolin, lanolin fatty acid, hard lanolin fatty acid, cholesteryl esters of lanolin fatty acid, lanolin alcohol, and lanolin alcohol acetate.
In another embodiment, the composition disclosed herein comprises at least one pasty compound other than lanolin derivatives.
The Guerbet capped polyester is the topic of Ser. No. 11/002,363 filed Dec. 3, 2004, incorporated herein by reference.
In one embodiment, the at least one polyester disclosed herein is liquid at ambient temperature (generally ranging from 20° C. to 25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
In another embodiment, the Guerbet capped polyester disclosed herein has a viscosity at 25° C. of more than 500 cP (50 Pa·s), such as ranging from 900 to 10,000 cP (90 to 1000 Pa·s) and further such as from 950 to 5,000 cP (95 to 500 Pa·s). Viscosity, as used herein, is measured with a Brookfield RV or Brookfield “DV-II+” viscometer of type LV equipped with a No. 1 spindle rotating at a speed ranging from 0.5 rpm to 10 rpm. This viscosity measurement is taken when the measurement value has stabilized, generally after 10 minutes.
In another embodiment, the Guerbet capped polyester disclosed herein has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.47, such as from 1.47 to 1.55, and further such as from 1.48 to 1.55 (wherein the refractive index is defined for the sodium D line). The refractive index is measured at 20° C. by reference to D Ray sodium (589 nm) according to, for example, ASTM Standards D 1218-92, D1500.
According to one embodiment, the Guerbet capped polyester is obtained by two esterification reactions of at least one diol, one diacid and a Guerbet alcohol.
The Guerbet capped polyester conforms to the following structure:A-(B-C)x-B-Awherein:A is
wherein;a in an integer ranging from 3 to 11;b in an integer ranging from 5 to 19, with the proviso that b=a+2;B is —C(O)—CH2—CH2—C(O)—C is a mixture of compounds conforming to the following structure:

wherein;                x is an integer ranging from 3 to 40.        
As should be readily understood the succinic acid (HO—C(O)—(CH2)2—C(O)OH) is a diacid that will react with hydroxyl groups to make esters. It will react with the various diols making up the dimer alcohol to make polyesters, that is each succinic carboxyl group will react with each hydroxyl group
Lacking the essential Guerbet alcohol the resulting polymer would be simply a nonending polymer -(B-C)x-. The viscosity would climb to very high levels and the product would be too thick to be functional.
The Guerbet alcohol is monofunctional providing a chain terminator and a way to control the molecular weight. The specific branched alcohol also provides low viscosity and gloss. This allows for the preparation of a high molecular weight low viscosity polymer which is highly prized in the cosmetic business. By regulating the ratio of Guerbet alcohol reacted the molecular weight is regulated, the more Guerbet, the lower the molecular weight.
The Guerbet capped polyester isprepared by the esterification reaction of
(a) a Guerbet alcohol conforming to the following structure:
wherein;a in an integer ranging from 3 to 11;b in an integer ranging from 5 to 19, with the proviso that b=a+2;(b) succinic acid conforming to the following structure:HO—C(O)—CH2—CH2—C(O)—OHand(c) dimer alcohol, a mixture of compounds conforming to the following structure:

wherein;                x is an integer ranging from 3 to 40.        